Last time Newcastle United came to the US, the two co-founders of this blog traveled more than 2,000 miles for matches in Kansas City and Columbus. This summer we won't travel at all, and not because we're boycotting (we softened our stance on that idea even before Jonas' thunderbastard and Mike Ashley at least trying to say something). It turns out NUFC is coming July 14 to our "home ground" - the fine city of Milwaukee in the pastoral state of Wisconsin. I'm a lifelong Milwaukeean, my original co-blogger Tom lives 80 miles away in the state capital of Madison, and our third addition Matt has come to visit from out east a couple of times as well (still waiting for Phil). Seeing as we're about as close to experts as NUFC fans get, here's our pocket guide to Milwaukee for Magpies.
Beer. Like Newcastle, Milwaukee is widely recognized for its beer - hence the name of the baseball club, the Brewers. Stemming from the town's German heritage, at one time all the major breweries in the US - Miller, Pabst, Schlitz, Blatz - were located here. (No, I didn't mention Budweiser. Once you're here you might not want to mention it either.) Only Miller still operates a large brewery in town, overlooking the baseball and occasional soccer stadium that bears its name. The departed mega-breweries have been supplanted joyfully by a host of small craft breweries that produce wonderful and often strong brew. We love our beer, especially before or after a game in the parking lots that sprawl between Miller Brewery and Miller Park - it's the oldest and best tailgate party scene in the US, and if you doubt it, come see for yourself.
Pubs. Wisconsin has more taverns per capita than any other state, many of which offer a large array of taps (see Beer, above). Milwaukee alone has several thousand pubs for you to explore - land in town and walk in any direction until there's a pint in your hand. For the Newcastle fan we can recommend one bar in particular: Highbury Pub, a couple of miles south of downtown in the Bay View neighborhood, easily reached from the city center by car or bus. There are several well-known soccer pubs in the city, but Highbury is the rowdiest, which is why it's been adopted by the Magpie crowd, and vice versa. The place is owned by a Crystal Palace fan. Rest assured you'll receive a warm welcome from him and everyone else, as the couple-to-a-dozen of us who show up on matchdays are the life (and sometimes demise) of the party. We're often given the balcony level to ourselves, which we unofficially re-label St. James' Pub.
Beaches. Wait, isn't Milwaukee in the middle of the country? Yes, but thanks to its positioning on the shore of Lake Michigan, it's one of the most inland ocean ports on the planet. While the water quality can fluctuate with the currents, there's no salt, and the beaches can feel like Florida. Bradford Beach adjacent to downtown is the most popular, where the sand is dotted with - of course - bars, so you don't have to bring in your beer cooler or margarita fixings. Green bluffs, some of which are still wilderness, spill to the lakeshore up and down the length of the city, giving Milwaukee a natural beauty that belies its industrial reputation. The lake breezes mean we rarely have to endure the blast-furnace temperatures that plagued NUFC during the 2011 tour, though if the wind is blowing out to the lake at the wrong time we can suffer the odd heat wave. This shouldn't be an issue at the match, though - Miller Park has a retractable-dome roof and can be closed and cooled if necessary.
Culture. Ask an American outside Milwaukee about the city, and with perhaps a nod to our iconic winged art museum, you'll likely hear about the German stuff, beer and bratwurst. There's plenty of that, for sure: Some of the more toothsome brats in town are served at Miller Park, with sauerkraut and a secret barbecue sauce (better than it sounds). Modern Milwaukee, though, is as much Hispanic as European, with a massive
Mexican-American community that helps explain why this match is being scheduled and who NUFC will be playing. While Atlas may not be quite the draw Chivas was in a friendly here against Swansea last year, prepare to be outnumbered in the stadium - this is not likely to resemble the typical away match in England where the local fans are drowned out on TV by "Toon Toon, black-and-white army." The Latin spirit permeates the city in surprising and colorful ways, including Mexican food as authentic and delicious as any US locale, in taquerias dotting the urban landscape particularly on the south side of town not far from the ballpark. With its central location and moderate living expense the city has been a magnet for immigrants from all over the globe, and whatever ethnic group or cultural attraction you can't find here you'll find in Chicago, whose central Loop is less than a 90-minute zip away on the Amtrak Hiawatha commuter train - so close the exurbs of the two cities are beginning to blend into a single lakeside megalopolis.
How to get here: Milwaukee has a nice and relatively stress-free airport with sinking fares thanks to the arrival of US discount carrier Southwest and the resulting competition. If you can't find a good fare, try Chicago - you can reach Milwaukee from there by rental car, bus or train, but be prepared for the jumble of humanity that is O'Hare International. If you're making the trip by car from any direction other than northwest, add an hour or so for passing through Chicago unless you hit it in the middle of the night.
Where to stay: The historic luxury hotel downtown is the Pfister, and on the right date you can find deals there at sub-luxury prices. Marriott and Hilton have new hotels in renovated historic buildings downtown. A fun upscale option not too far from the stadium is the independent Iron Horse Hotel, adjacent to the headquarters and museum of Harley-Davidson, whose motorcycles emit a steady hum here in their native city. Most of the budget accommodation options are outside the city center, and there's not much hotel-wise or otherwise around the stadium, which lies about 50 blocks west of downtown. There's always Airbnb.
As a bonus, here's a guide to the other cities on the newly announced NUFC tour.
Portland: Hipsters.
Sacramento: Cows.
So come to Milwaukee, and we look forward to showing you a good time. Unless you're boycotting. Which we totally understand!
For the record, JOE, the owner of The Highbury Pub, is a Crystal Palace fan. Although he definitely tolerates us Gooners to a great degree! :)
Posted by: Matt S. | 06/02/2015 at 09:04 PM
Any word on VIP passes like the one in KC?
Posted by: Muzztard | 06/02/2015 at 09:58 PM
Joe is a Palace fan? I thought that Crystal Palace stuff was ironic. Why would a Palace fan name his bar Highbury? Is my chain being yanked? I think I want to hear this out of the man himself.
Muzztard, we don't know on VIP passes yet, but we'll keep everyone posted on stuff like this as we hear so check back. If you're on Twitter you might want to follow us there at @NUFC_US as well. Toon Army America (@ToonArmyAmerica) is probably the best follow on Twitter and Facebook for stuff like this. I believe they are officially affiliated with the club, and we most definitely are not, as you might guess from some of our content.
Posted by: Bob | 06/03/2015 at 08:09 AM
Heard from Joe on Facebook. Post has been corrected.
Posted by: Bob | 06/03/2015 at 08:43 AM
Boycotting this one?
Posted by: B_Gords | 06/03/2015 at 09:45 AM
Referenced in post.
Posted by: Bob | 06/03/2015 at 10:10 AM
Coming Home Newcastle said something about the Toon Army getting Section 235... this sound right?
Posted by: Bob Mueser | 06/03/2015 at 01:33 PM
That is correct. Behind the east net.
Posted by: Bob | 06/03/2015 at 02:35 PM
Are there any package deals for us Toon Fans back east to ensure we get in the right section?
Posted by: Dana Pirovane | 06/03/2015 at 08:59 PM
Got my seats in 235. Going to be a leap, but if Aarons scores we're on the pitch!
Posted by: Dave from Newcastle | 06/03/2015 at 09:32 PM
Is there a presale code? Would love to get my tickets before tomorrow morning!
Posted by: Rachel | 06/03/2015 at 09:38 PM
From Toon Army America: To get your seats in the unofficial NUFC fan section (section 235), call Kelvin with the Brewers at 414-902-4658.
Posted by: Tom | 06/04/2015 at 08:40 AM
HEY GUYS,
JUST A HEADS UP. THREE LIONS PUB LOCATED AT 4515 N OAKLAND AVENUE, MILWAUKEE WI 53211, AND RED LION PUB 1850 N WATER ST MILWAUKEE WI 53212 ARE OWNED AND OPERATED BY BRITISH LADS ARE WORKING ALONGSIDE JOE AT THE HIGHBURY, MILWAUKEE BARONS AND A FEW OTHER PUBS TO THROUGH A HUGE TAILGATE PARTY BEFORE THE GAME. THEY HAVE 50 TICKETS LET IN THE 235 SECTION AND ARE DOING AN ALL INCLUSIVE FOOD, BEER, TICKET, AND TRANSPORT TRIP, INCLUDING ACCESS TO THE TAILGATE PARTY WITH ALL THE BEER.
MILWAUKEE HAS SOME GREAT SOCCER BARS AND I PERSONALLY HAD A SEASON TICKET FOR BLACKBURN ROVERS SINCE I WAS A KID TILL MOVING OUT HERE SO NATURALLY WE HAVE A SHRINE TO SHEARER IN HIS BRFC AND NUFC DAYS AT BOTH LOCATIONS. ALSO AT RED LION WE HAVE A 21" X 12" FOOTY POOL TABLE, TO PLAY POOL WITH SOCCER BALLS THATS A BIT OF FUN.
CHECK US OUT AND YOU CAN BUY PACKAGES FOR THE GAME, INCLUDING TICKETS FOR THE SECTION 235 AT EITHER LOCATION.
THREE LIONS PUB
WEBSITE: WWW.THREELIONSPUB.COM
FACEBOOK: https://www.facebook.com/threelionspub
RED LION PUB
WEBSITE: WWW.REDLIONPUBMKE.COM
FACEBOOK: https://www.facebook.com/redlionpubmke/
AS A MASSIVE FAN OF NIGHTS OUT IN NEWCASTLE, I KNOW YOU GUYS WONT BE DISSAPOINTED WITH THE NIGHTLIFE IN MILWAUKEE. PLENTY OF TOP PLACES TO CHOOSE FROM AND FEEL FREE TO STOP BY BRADFORD BEACH ON THE SUNDAY TO COME JOIN IN AND PLAY BEACH FOOTBALL WITH ANY OF OUR LADS.
Posted by: David Price | 06/08/2015 at 01:30 PM
CalgaryMag here, I will be attending a conference in Lake Geneva WI on the 23/14th and heading to Milwaukee for the game with my good lady. I'm going to try and get seats in section 235. I'll waive a red and white Canadian Maple leaf flag, if you see it drop by and say hello.
Chris Sore, now of Calgary Canada but born and raised in Haltwhistle Northumberland and still bleed black and white.
Posted by: Chris Sore (CalgaryMag) | 07/06/2015 at 12:01 PM
Damn it. I thought the Toon Army section was 234. I'm going to be so close but so far away :(
Posted by: Zach | 07/10/2015 at 08:42 AM